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Why Victoria's Secret's runway comeback didn't miss the mark
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Why Victoria's Secret's runway comeback didn't miss the mark

It was 2014 and I was in the middle of my eating disorder. My career as a journalist was flourishing and I was thrilled to be invited to report behind the scenes at the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show in London. I stood there with my mouth open as I took in the sight: a sea of ​​beautiful, otherworldly “angels” dressed in the famous pink and white striped dressing gowns and glittering hair and makeup chairs while camera crews and reporters clamored for them Get access.

When I quickly examined the heights of the women preparing for the runway, I was surprised to find that they were even smaller in real life than they had appeared on the runway in previous shows. It's hard to imagine because they looked pretty thin back then too – but of course, as the famous saying goes, “The camera adds 10 pounds.”

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There wasn't an ounce of fat in sight among the models, and being immersed in diet culture and the idea that thinness means everything, I felt worse and worse as I made the rounds, chatting with each model about their own model varied and often extreme pre-tournament training programs and restrictive diet plans. I spent the next week doing a juice cleanse and hitting the treadmill whenever I had a free moment.

Victoria's Secret Fashion Show 2024

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Of course, Victoria's Secret wasn't responsible for my eating disorder – it was already established by the time I even started walking the runways – nor was it solely responsible for creating a completely unattainable standard of beauty. But for me and so many other women and impressionable young girls of my generation, it has undoubtedly given enormous fuel to the myth that you have to be thin to be attractive, desirable and even sexy.

Since its inception, the brand has uncompromisingly adhered to its very narrow and incredibly flawless standard of beauty, making very few attempts to be inclusive – albeit against a backdrop of an increasingly diverse landscape (Savage x Fenty blew us away with their groundbreaking, incredibly inclusive runway show in the Blown away in 2018). ) there was a growing feeling of dissatisfaction online. However, the nail in Victoria's Secret's coffin came in late 2018 when former Chief Marketing Officer Ed Razek opened up about it fashion magazine that the brand had no interest in casting plus or transgender models in its fashion show. “Shouldn’t transsexuals be in the show?” “No. No, I don’t think we should,” he said, using an outdated term for transgender. He cited the reason for the lack of plus-size models in the upcoming show as the show being intended as a “fantasy.”

Victoria's Secret Fashion Show 2024

Getty Images

Victoria's Secret Fashion Show 2024

Getty Images

Reaction to Razek's problematic comments was intense and widespread, with the brand scrambling to restore its reputation. Razek apologized and just a few months later, Victoria's Secret hired its first transgender model, Valentina Sampaio, and cast its first-ever curve model, Ali Tate Cutler. Although it was a step forward for the brand, the moves felt performative and were not enough to undo the damage caused: that same year, Razek resigned due to public pressure and the famous lingerie show was canceled.

Tall, tanned, extremely slim, abs and no cellulite, topped off with a Hollywood blow-dry: it felt Only like the old days of Victoria's Secret

Personally, I saw this as a win for our collective body image and definitely didn't miss the annual event. But my interest was piqued in May of this year when the brand announced the show's return with promising words: “We've been reading the comments and listening to you.” “The Victoria's Secret Fashion Show is BACK and will reflect who we are today, as well as everything you know and love – glamour, runway, wings, musical entertainment and more!”

Victoria's Secret Fashion Show 2024

Getty Images

Victoria's Secret Fashion Show 2024

Getty Images

The company said exactly the right thing – and I was cautiously optimistic that it would use this opportunity to fully commit to inclusion, both in terms of body and gender diversity. It would have been a huge win for women around the world: to see a variety of truly diverse models presented at such a famous global event, who have previously contributed to our poor body image and self-esteem such a healing moment.

Fast forward to October 2024 and on Tuesday night, the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show officially returned to its flagship store in New York after a six-year hiatus. So – what was the verdict? Did the brand deliver what it promised?

I Really I wanted there to be a happy ending, and I wanted to be able to confirm that the show was indeed the therapeutic moment that those of us who grew up in the 1990s and 2000s needed. But unfortunately last night's show showed that the brand's promises are just lip service – especially when it comes to body diversity.

Yes, the show featured two trans models, Valentina Sampaio and Alex Consani, refuting Razek's comment that there was no place for transgender models as Victoria's Secret Angels. But as I watched one skinny model after another appear on the runway, I realized that not much else has changed: The brand doesn't seem to be changing Strictly speaking value inclusivity.

There was a token attempt at body diversity with the inclusion of Ashley Graham and Paloma Elsesser, but both models are a very palatable version of “plus size”: more medium than plus, and with a more conventionally attractive hourglass shape. Additionally, both models felt more covered up than their thinner counterparts: Paloma wore a dress and Ashley wore a corset under a lace gown. Their outfits seemed to contrast with the cropped thong two-pieces the other straight women were wearing.

Victoria's Secret Fashion Show 2024

Getty Images

Victoria's Secret Fashion Show 2024

Masato Onoda//Getty Images

Aside from Paloma and Ashley, we were treated to a display of women who embody the same very narrow view of beauty that was so damaging to our formative minds. Tall, tanned, extremely slim, abs and no cellulite, topped off with a Hollywood blow-dry: it felt Only like the old days of Victoria's Secret.

Am I being too critical? Possibly, but I don't think so. The comeback was a missed opportunity for the brand to showcase a wide and diverse range of beauty and body types and make women around the world feel seen, celebrated and welcomed in a space where they always were excluded.

We've moved on from the golden days of Victoria's Secret, where only one kind of beauty was shown and worshiped: we want a world that celebrates a much more accurate cross-section of society; a world full of diversity that allows everyone to feel included. Does Victoria's Secret still have a place in this world? I'm not so sure.


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